Dégustation de vin - 3 April 2009

Christophe, Sandrine & Louis

Jean-Paul Thibert, Macon-Fuisse 2007, Fuisse, France

This is a 100% chardonnay, white Burgundy from the estate of Jean-Paul Thibert (now Domaine Thibert Pere et Fils).  If you have trouble remembering that Chardonnay is the only grape that matters in Macon-Fuisse or Pouilly-Fuisse, well just try keping in mind that Chardonnay isn't "fussy"!  And it really will grow anywhere, and can be made into wine of a wide variety of styles.  No wonder it is so popular.  But few places produce such light and elegant, and importantly, affordable, Chardonnays as here in the Maconnais district in the south of Burgundy.

Christophe Thibert and his sister Sandrine are now responsible for the cultivation, winemaking and everything else at this small estate, half owned and half share-cropped.  The estate vineyards and leased parcels are all located in the village of Fuisse, right in the heart of Pouilly Fuisse.  The Thiberts use only natural remedies in the vineyard: aerating the soil, severe bunch and leaf thinning, lutte raisonnee (no sprays) and harvesting by hand.  "Vin Eleve En Fut du Chene" or "wine raised in oak", so the wine was aged in new and old oak casks, probably from Bordeaux.  13% abv.  One of the Wine Advocate's "The World's Greatest Wine Values":

"This was my first opportunity to taste wines from this Maconnaise estate and based on their two least expensive offerings, here is a superb source.  The 2007 Macon-Fuisse -- fermented and aged in old foudre -- smells of lime, subtly bitter fruit pits, sage, and meat stock, almost like a cross between a Riesling and a Chablis.  Well-concentrated on the palate, it offers a fine combination of substantiality with brightness and lift, leading to a long, bright finish.  It will probably be at its best over the next 2-3 years.  89 points."

~~David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate #178, 31 August 2008

Chateau de Mattes-Sabran, Le Clos Redon 2005, Corbieres, France

100% Syrah from Chateau de Mattes-Sabran (clicky click) in Languedoc in the south of France, this wine won a gold medal in 2007.  Reported to make people feel "weak in the knees" (clicky click).  13.5% abv.  90 points from Wine Advocate, although I can't find the review (WA #173?).  To quote winedoctor (clicky click):

"Chateau de Mattes-Sabran is a massive 615 hectare estate in the Sigean sub-region (as yet not legally defined) of Corbieres, France's fourth largest appellation.  Here the soils consist, generalising (sic), of marine clay and limstone, and Jean-Luc Brouillat and his wife continue the family tradition of tending vines on this estate, which has been in the family since 1733.  There are about 90 ha of vines all told, planted in 3 ha blocks, in two large portions.  There is a 27 ha porton on the soils typical of Corbieres, and a larger 60 ha portion around the house, planted on alluvial gravel and on limestone and marl.  These vineyards support a range of varieties, the reds including Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, the whites Vermentino (also known as Rolle), as well as the more usual international varieties."

~~Chris Kissak, winedoctor.com

[Both end of the year, mixed-case discounts at Berman's Wines & Spirits in Lexington MA (clicky click).  Thibert: $14.99; $ 19.50 release.  Mattes-Sabran:  $12.99; $17.00 release.]